TODAY I joined the crowds in Parnu to watch the assembled might of the Estonian military take part in a parade to mark 90 years since the first independent Estonia was declared.
Estonia’s army might not be the largest or have the most modern equipment, but I wouldn’t take them on. A fine body of men indeed (they breed ‘em big up there) and very smartly turned out.
The streets of the pretty port town were full and everyone had a flag (if you weren’t displaying one, teams of flag dispensers soon ensured you did) yet I was struck by the fact that even though this was a flag-waving national day, the mood was far from nationalistic. In fact it was fairly restrained.
Yet nor was it sentimental or inconsequential. Estonians seem to have a very healthy attitude to their statehood – matter-of-fact but not taken for granted. Compared to the extremes of emotion displayed on Latvian national days which range from bleary-eyed idealism to shrugging couldn’t-give-a-damn (I’ve yet to experience a Lithuanian equivalent) it was very refreshing.
It’s a stereotype, but it seemed once again that the Estonian approach had a decidedly Scandinavian feel to it.
Walking into the centre of Parnu, we passed the various battalions forming up and getting a final inspection from their commanders. On one side was the infantry in green battledress, on the other, the navy in rather elegant black pea coats with brass buttons. But to anyone over the age of thirty, the most exciting sight was the winter warfare brigade in their white coveralls looking like they had wandered straight off the set of Where Eagles Dare, an impression reinforced by the bright spring sunshine, blue skies and complete lack of snow.
